Hi everyone. My first BMW. I have bought a 96 bmw 316i (m43) which has two (maybe the same problem). The first problem. The coolant system seems to be presurising over the normal level. All hoses are hard. I have renewed fluid, the themostat, the plastic pipe on the back of the cylinder head, checked the water pump which was ok (metal impellor I am a 3rd party observer to this thread. I don't have the problem, I don't want to read a treatise on BMW transmissions, but am still interested in the resolution. It would seem to me that if someone were an expert on BMW transmissions, it would be possible to post a couple of sentences with an educated guess as to what the problem might be. Recalls: BMW E36 3-Series sedan. In February 1992, a recall was issued for certain 318i, 320i and 325i E36 3-Series vehicles due to possible chafing of the power lead insulation as it passed through the firewall - this could create a fire hazard ( PRA 1992/1528 ). In July 1996, a recall was issued for certain BMW E36 vehicles due to a fault in 1995 M reg E36 316i compact with around 138K on it due service around about now 6k after last one. I was out last week and after i pulled up for half hour and as soon as we jumped back in the car was just completely different to drive. It was rather restraint and slow, no pull/torque in it at all. BMW E32, E34 & E36 Immobiliser and Alarm Identification & Faults Guide - GR40, 2T, 3T, 3G EWS (Sigma, Gemel, Serpi Star) EWS I, EWS II. My aim is to post all the confirmed knowledge about the immobiliser and alarm systems listed above. Many thanks to all those that have given me updates. There was a problem with the Pre-1995 BMW coils. They were very bad at cracking and causing misfire and erratic idle. The coils should be replaced with Bremi coils [£28.50+VAT from Europspec / BMW wanted £52+VAT!]. The coils can be tested in the following way: Y8IP6. Fuel flow spray is readily accessible, making it fast to check for potential problems. Checking Fuel Spray. 1. Remove the cover off the air cleaner housing (where the air filter lives). 2. Ask an assistant to start (or crank the engine, if it doesn't start). 3. Check the spray pattern coming our of the injector. Spannerhead. Many many threads on this. First off, the subframes are very robust; it's the design of the unibody sheetmetal in the vicinity of the subframe mounting points that is particularly weak. Just to be clear. BMW quietly changed the mounting point design sometime in late '01. The consensus is that '02+ cars are less susceptible than Model: E36 318i sedan 4 doors. Engine: M43B18. Transmission: automatic. Problem: I have bad and slow acceleration. When the car got warmed the acceleration goes bad, i asked many people for this case. And they told me it's a transmission! Cause when i step on the gas till the end, the car not goes fast !! Somethings like it's too heavy. While at an auto auction, I came across this E36 1993 BMW This video will help you diagnose a crank no start on your car, specifically a BMW E36 chassis car. While at an auto auction, I came [This article is based on the 914 starter system, but the principles discussed are easily applicable to all BMW Models] The starter system in the 914 is fairly simple, and fairly robust. It is, however, subject to the usual problems that can plague any electric start system, plus those that are unique to the 914: specifically corroded I put a m44b19 out of a 318ti compact into a 316i sedan. Engine and all mechanical/electrical parts have been transplanted, I have problems to start the car, problems related to drive-away protection (EWS2). I would be super thankful if you could provide me some hints on how to solve the current problem. Donor : 1997 e36 318ti m44b19 EWS2

bmw e36 316i common problems